Some Edible and Medicinal Wild Mushrooms

Chanterelles

Cantharellus

cibarius & Var. (Chanterelle, Girolle, Pfifferling)

Chanterelles possess a heady combination of earthiness, with floral apricot aromas. These mushrooms are deceiving in their seeming delicacy. They are peppery when raw, which disappears upon cooking. They can be used in very delicate flavor combinations such as consommés or cream sauces yet are robust enough to stand alone on a hot grill with olive oil, salt and pepper or sautéed heaped upon a beef rib chop. They pair very well with hazelnut oil when gently sautéed and seem, as do many other mushrooms, to have signed a pact with eggs. Darker flavored ingredients such as garlic and soy sauce conflict with the chanterelles’ fruity and ethereal aromas. There is enough variety in the species cibarius that I think it is likely that there could be numerous Cantharellus subspecies described in the future.

lateritius (Smooth Chanterelle)

In the kitchen, for all intents and purposes, the Smooth Chanterelle has the same delightful characteristics as the Chanterelle and is thankfully very prolific in our area.

cinnabarinus (Red Chanterelle)

insubstantial and lacking the flavor and aroma of its larger relatives, this is significant mainly in the fact that it appears in large numbers and adds a nice splash of color to a dish.

minor (Small Chanterelle)

tubaeformis, lutescens, xanthopus (Yellow Foot)

These thinner fleshed members of the chanterelle family exhibit much less or sometimes even none of the aromatic qualities of their larger cousins.

Craterellus

fallax (Black Trumpet, Horn of Plenty, Trumpet of Death)

This mushroom would be a close match to the Chanterelle in its gastronomic delights were it not for its insubstantial nature. What it lacks in meatiness, however, it makes up for in its aroma. It is wonderful in sauces, and its combination of dark and fruity flavors make it at home equally with eggs, in a stew, risottos, consommés or stir fries. Its mixed flavors also allow it to pair successfully with some other mushrooms such as Morels and of course Chanterelles.

Polyozellus

multiplex (Blue Clustered Chanterelle)

Picking, Cooking, Storing: The Chanterelles are sometimes difficult to dislodge from the earth with a knife, as the stem is fibrous and their attachment to the ground sometimes weak, so frequently one ends up pulling them up unintentionally. Whichever the case, make sure to trim them, as with all mushrooms intended for the pot, before they go in your basket, or you will spend a great deal more time at home cleaning than necessary. When cleaning chanterelles the preferred method is with a brush and without water, though some specimens become so dirty that they must be scrubbed gently under running water.

Chanterelles are like sponges when it comes to water, and when they become waterlogged it is difficult to highlight their finest attributes in the pan. If washing in water, be sure to do so only immediately before cooking as their drenching will shorten their shelf life considerably. You will also need to use a higher temperature pan to help evaporate excess moisture. Most mushrooms in the chanterelle group do not respond well to drying. They become hard and chewy upon rehydration, having lost most of their texture, flavor and aromatic qualities. The liquid from rehydration contains none of the wonderful benefits as liquid from other mushrooms and if used in a stock or reduced for a sauce or risotto will add about as much benefit as dirty dishwater. The only member of the group which does very well with drying is the Black Trumpet, yet even this gets a bit stringy upon rehydration. Chanterelles do respond well, however, to other processes of preservation such as freezing after sautéing, pickling and as duxelles. The inclusion of fat in their cooking before freezing increases their chance of survival greatly.

Morels

Morchella

esculenta & var. (Common Morel, Yellow Morel) Depending on who you speak to, this group might also include Morchella deliciosa and crassipes

elata group (Black Morel complex)

These are among some of the best and most sought after mushrooms on the planet. Causing palpitations of delight when found, these mushrooms still cause the hair to stand up on my head and a frisson to shoot up my spine with the first find of the season. It is doubly or triply exciting when I know that when one is found, it is very rare that there are not many others in the area! In centuries past, some German forests were burned so as to guarantee fruitful morel harvests the coming year. Thankfully for the sake of the trees, this is no longer the case, but the passion inspired by these ascomycetes is still alive and well.

semilibera (Half Free Morel)

The Half Free Morel is definitely of the morel family, but is often overlooked or maligned because it appears so close to the time of its favored magnificent cousins, but it does possess some tasty morel flavors and would probably be more highly regarded if it appeared in a later part of the season. The excitement it generates in the spring comes mainly from its role as the messenger who tells us that “real morels” are a scant week or few days away. Morchella semilibera’s season overlaps with the fruiting seasons of the Yellow and Black Morels, so it can also be an indicator that the other morels might be present in the same environment.

Picking, Cooking and Storing: When picking morels, rule #1 is “Don’t move your feet without determining that you will not step on any.” There are few things more heartbreaking than stepping on, or even worse, lawn mowing or driving over beautiful morels! Morels grow in a variety of environments. If you are lucky enough to find a fruiting of them that is mostly clean and devoid of dirt and sand, make sure to keep dirty mushrooms away from the clean ones. Once grit is lodged in the pits of morels, the only way you can get it out is with washing, and this will reduce the aroma and flavor of the mushrooms. Before cooking, it is a good idea to carefully inspect the inside of the morels by either slicing in half lengthwise or peering through the stem to make sure you have no unexpected guests. Slugs and pillbugs love to hang out inside these prized fungi and I have on several occasions, to my dismay found colonies of ants residing inside big beautiful morels!

When dried, the morel’s aroma and flavor are intensified and made even more musky and heady and dark. When fresh, the yellow morel still has amazing aroma and flavor but is much more subtle and the texture more delicate. One of my favorite spring treats is a tart of morels, fiddlehead ferns and ramps in a savory egg and cream custard. The epitome of spring! The black morel is somewhat stronger in flavor and some people’s stomachs are sensitive to it. Morels are a natural pair with cream, pasta and eggs and are outstanding with light meats such as veal, veal sweetbreads, foie gras, pheasant, chicken, or even loin of doe, which has a more delicate flavor and texture than that of a buck. They are also prime candidates for the practice of stuffing….I have heard reports of morels poached in cream which have been piped first with a mousseline of scallop and shrimp. If using dry morels, make sure to reserve the liquid left from rehydration, but filter it through cheesecloth or a coffee filter before using it in stocks, sauces etc..

Morels are, as with most edible mushrooms, partially indigestible or toxic when raw, so it is essential to thoroughly cook both the mushrooms and any soaking liquid you may use in a dish.

Agaricus

This is the group of mushrooms most closely related to our grocery store varieties and includes some jewels which are, in my opinion, far superior. With the Agarics, always make sure to perform a spore print to verify that your potential dinner is not a difficult to identify Amanita or Lepiota! Better yet, check your identification with several knowledgeable friends. Agaricus species are tricky, though, so make sure to take care not to confuse the Meadow or Horse mushrooms with the Yellow Stainer, Agaricus xanthodermus.

campestris (Meadow Mushroom)

Meadow Mushrooms are tasty and they usually fruit in sizeable numbers over a pretty extended period of time. They are very similar to our cultivated white button mushrooms with a little bit more of the outdoors in the flavor.

arvensis (Horse Mushroom)

Sometimes quite large and appearing in fairy rings, this mushroom has an aroma of anise and almonds and is a choice edible.

subrufescens (Almond Agaricus)

Were it not for it’s distinctive marshmallow shape in the button stage and its overwhelming almond extract flavor, the Almond Agaricus could also be confused with a poisonous cousin. To me, this mushroom is a very special treat. It is not very common in our area, but when found is a cause for celebration and sharing. Very similar to the Prince (Agaricus augustus) common in the West, this mushroom retains its best texture, flavor and appearance when harvested in the button stage. Don’t worry, the buttons can be some 4-5” across! The almond extract flavor of this mushroom is shocking at first taste and seems only to get stronger with cooking. It sometimes also has hints of fennel aromas in the background. It begs to be prepared in a cream sauce and is also exceptional with chicken breast or in a piquant pasta sauce of cream and mussels.

Picking, Cooking and Storing: These mushrooms will last for 3 or 4 days in the refrigerator in a basket covered by a damp towel or in a paper bag. These mushrooms respond well to nearly all of the methods of preservation. They dry very well, make wonderful duxelles, and freeze well when cooked. I would shy away from pickling the Almond Mushroom due to flavor conflicts.

Boletes

A note on Boletaceae

There are many many mushrooms lumped into the “Bolete” group and although there are too many edible species to list here, many in the group can be difficult to identify, and there are some which will cause stomach upsets or poisonings. For this reason, until advanced knowledge of the group is acquired, stick to these rules:

Eat nothing which:

-stains blue or green upon handling, bruising or cutting

-has red to orange colored pores

You may miss out on some good edibles, but it will keep you from making some mistakes . If they pass these criteria, try them out. What you find may take your palate from the horribly bitter to the fantastically wonderful. Enjoy the ride.

Boletus

edulis (Cepe, Porcini, King Bolete, Penny Bun, Steinpilz)

The King, it doesn’t get much better than this. Once you try it, most other

boletes will seem inconsequential. Meaty, nutty, earthy intoxicating.

bicolor (Bicolored bolete)

Choice

russellii (Russell’s Bolete)

don’t confuse with Frost’s Bolete from which some people experience gastric

upsets.

badius (Bay Bolete)

affinis var.maculosus (Spotted Bolete)

Leccinum

scabrum (Scaber Stalk)

Some of the Scaber Stalks are quite tasty—worth a try.

Suillus

luteus (Slippery Jack)

This is a very popular and common bolete which many folk gather

enthusiastically. The flavor is nice, but it cooks up a little bit on the soft side.

Gyroporus

castaneus (Chestnut bolete)

This is a really nice little bolete

Tylopilus

alboater (Black Velvet Bolete)

Tasty and exotic with its velvety head.

Strobilomyces

floccopus (Old man of the woods)

Many people enjoy this common and plentiful mushroom. To me, it has a

vapid texture and no flavor.

Picking, Cooking and Storing: Generally with this group, you’ll want to “field dress” them before heading home. Notorious favorites of slugs, maggots and worms, you may find what appears to be a beautiful specimen which is, in fact completely riddled with worm holes. Choose mushrooms which are firm and trim the bases to keep dirt out of the basket and to assure you have no uninvited guests. Sometimes a compromise is necessary as it is too sad to dispose of a nice big Porcino just because it has a few little worms in it. The extra protein builds character, you know.

Porcini respond pretty well to drying. It intensifies their aroma and flavor dramatically but the only thing that suffers is the texture, so eat what you can fresh. Often times when gathering boletes, you may find a great deal and you may feel inclined to pick more than you could possibly eat yourself. If, at any time, you are faced with an overabundance of porcini, my home phone number is (845) 687 2172. Otherwise, if not in a sharing mood, dry them, blanch them whole and freeze them, sauté them and freeze them, make sauce and freeze it, or make duxelles from them and freeze it.

Boletes have some of the “mushroomiest” flavors and aromas out there. Their textures vary considerably depending upon the length and method of cooking. Some, like Boletus edulis, retain an amazing soft bite to them when sautéed, but can become as silky as cream when simmered in a soup and pureed. Play around with grilling, sauces, soups and sautéing with these mushrooms, but keep it simple. Do not smother them with so much kitchen love that you end up missing their finer points in the final product.

Polyporaceae

A note on Polypores:

This group of mushrooms includes some of the most highly regarded medicinal mushrooms in the traditional pharmacopoeia. Although I cannot speak directly to their usage as medicines, I include them here for your further investigation should you choose to do so.

Laetiporus

sulphureus (Sulfur Shelf, Chicken Mushroom)

cinncinatus (Sulfur Shelf, Chicken Mushroom)

Delicious and splashy, these sizeable fungi are best harvested by only the outer 2 inches of the shelf, depending on how mature the specimen is. When young, the edges resemble tender chicken when sautéed. If sliced thinly into strips at an angle and fried in butter with a drop of Liquid Smoke, this mushroom makes a delicious vegetarian bacon.

Grifola

frondosa (Hen of the Woods, Maitake)

A mushroom of great renown, the Maitake mushroom is both a culinary delight in the kitchen and purported to be a powerful Maitake or Hen of the Woods medicinal, as well. This mushroom grills well, sautés well and makes wonderfully crunchy pickles. Beware bringing more that one of these home at a time, as they can nearly fill your fridge. Also be sure to give them a good shake before you leave the woods, as they are also a favorite home of little orange salamanders, slugs, pillbugs and spiders. Even the most well-loved mycophagist has trouble convincing a spouse of the necessity of slugs & bugs in the refrigerator.

Ganoderma

lucidum (Ling Chih, Reishi)

Purported to have phenomenal medicinal properties with uses ranging from use as an anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-tumor, anti-viral, in reduction/regulation of blood pressure, in moderation of blood sugar, in the reduction of cholesterol, as an immune enhancer, kidney and liver tonic and in the reduction of stress. I can not speak directly to the claims made about this fungus, but I do know that it has been an important part of Chinese medicine for at least 2000 years and that many intelligent folks from traditional medicine practitioners to pharmaceutical developers are paying close attention to the tests being done in regards to Ganoderma lucidum. I, myself have made tea from this mushroom and have felt a distinct stress reducing and mentally clarifying effect from consuming it. Hemlock Varnish Shelf

tsugae (Hemlock Varnish Shelf)

I have read some studies out of Korea which claim that this very common fungus has similar medicinal properties as the Ling Chih described above.

applanatum (Artist’s Conk)

It is fun to create drawings on the pores of this mushroom when fresh, but it is also purported to have anti-bacterial, anti-candida and anti-tumor properties as well.

Trametes

versicolor (Turkey Tail)

Very common in our area, Turkey Tail is another polypore reported to have anti-bacterial, anti-viral, anti-oxidant, anti-tumor and immune enhancing properties.

Polyporus

squamosus (Dryad Saddle)

This has an interesting aroma of watermelon rind, but proves to be fairly uninteresting to eat. I dry this, powder it in a coffee grinder and use it to flavor soups.

umbellatus (Umbrella Polypore)

A choice edible similar to Hen of the Woods.

Fistulina

hepatica (Beefsteak Fungus, Ox’s Tongue)

Young specimens can be eaten raw in salads, adding a tangy sourness. Before preparing Beefsteak Fungus, peel away the cuticle. The texture is truly similar to meat when cooked, but this mushroom does turn black upon cooking, losing its bright red attributes completely. Due to its acrid yet mushroomy flavor profile, it pairs well with fatty foods such as liver and sweetbreads

Picking, Cooking and Storing: Polypores grow mainly on living, dying or rotting wood. They tend to be a hardy bunch, a number of which actually overwinter. On the whole, polypores are more fibrous than the majority of terrestrial mushrooms, and thus, their treatment for the kitchen differs somewhat from other mushrooms. Many of the edible polypores are so woody that you would probably be as likely to

enjoy eating a piece of particle board or fine teak furniture. The Hen, Chicken and Beefsteak mushrooms listed above, however can be prepared beautifully for the table in many ways. Drying them for preservation is recommended only if the intent is to chop or powder them for tea or stews where they will be simmered for a long time. Even then, they will be leathery. These are best eaten fresh, pickled, or sautéed and frozen.

Hydnaceae

Hydnum, Dentinum

repandum (Hedgehog Mushroom, Sweet Tooth)

This mushroom varies greatly in size and shape. I have found them very thick-fleshed and 8 inches in diameter or quite small and insubstantial. If found small, they sometimes grow much larger when left to their own devices. As the name suggests, the fruiting body has “teeth” instead of gills under the cap where it produces spores.

umbilicatum (Hedgehog Mushroom, Sweet Tooth)

Similar in most attributes to Hydnum repandum, this much smaller variety usually has a deep indentation or hole in the center of the cap with slightly thinner flesh.

Picking, Storing and Cooking: Especially delicious with meats, the Hedgehog Mushrooms are at once meaty, mushroomy and nutty. Use a knife to cut through the thick stem so as not to damage the mycelium and remove any dirt with a brush before placing in your basket as it is impossible to remove dirt from the teeth under the cap once it is lodged there. Although I have never done so, some people remove the teeth before preparation claiming that they can be bitter. This mushroom is ideal for sauté, grilling and pickling.

Hericium

coralloides (Bear’s Head Tooth)

ramosum (Comb Tooth)

americanum (Bear’s Head Tooth)

erinacium (Pom Pom, Old Man’s Beard, Lion’s Mane)

These mushrooms look more likely to appear in Star Trek’s “Trouble with

Tribbles” than on a plate, but if there is one thing that mycophagy teaches us it is that appearances are sometimes deceiving. The hericium fungi look like furballs or icicles or waterfalls or pom-poms, and they squeek a little between the teeth as you chew, but their flavor and aroma can be enthralling. They are also, I am told, among the fungi which are bioluminescent. I wonder if they still glow in the dark after they are cooked!

Picking, Cooking and Storing: Always try to cut these from their tree without brushing dirt or bark detritus into them as they are impossible to clean. I have sautéed them and stewed them with success and they freeze well only as long as they are submerged in a fatty liquid, otherwise the tiny teeth of this fungus will freezer burn faster than you can say, “Captain Kirk.” If treated correctly with butter, they can resemble lobster.

Coprinus

A brief note on Coprinus: Their consumption requires some awareness, Shaggy Mane

preparation and followthrough. The Coprinus, or Inky Caps, are a group of mushrooms which pop up and rapidly autodigest or deliquesce, that is, they turn to black goo at the drop of a hat. Besides this time element, the warning which is necessary with Coprinus (especially atrementarius) is that they should NEVER be consumed with alcohol as this can result in serious poisoning. A compound in the mushroom has the effect of turning off the body’s ability to produce the enzymes responsible for breaking down alcohol. As alcohol normally goes through two enzymatic processes in the body before “safely” arriving in the bloodstream, it is essential to heed this warning to avoid seriously toxic effects. Furthermore, a prolonged sensitivity to alcohol can persist up to 2 or 3 days following the consumption of these mushrooms.

comatus (Shaggy Mane, Lawyer’s Wig)

The Shaggy Mane, or Coprinus comatus, is probably the only member of the genus interesting enough or sizeable enough to bring to the table, but make sure that the pan is hot before you get home, because they really do deteriorate at an impressive rate. If you find one, chances are, a great many are in attendance.

Picking, Cooking and Storing: Collect only those Shaggy Manes which are tightly closed, white and firm. They should show not even the slightest hint of black along the margin or they may cause stomach upsets. These mushrooms do not store well unless they have been cooked first, which halts the autodigestion process. They can become very soft upon cooking , so use in sauces in appropriate. They can also be breaded and fried well.

A note on Corals : Although some of the guide books indicate that some of the common terrestrial corals are edible, Crown-tpped Coral it has been observed recently that some people have been made very ill by consuming previously unidentified look-alikes. It appears that the differences separating these species are only discernible by careful study under a microscope. It is also my understanding that contrary to some folklore, thermal exposure does not have an effect on the toxins present, in other words, cooking these fungi will not render them magically safe. For these reasons I do not recommend consuming any of the terrestrial coral fungi which are indistinguishable by macroscopic features.

Clavicorona

Pyxidata (Crown-tipped Coral)

This beautiful white to cream colored coral grows only on wood. It’s greatest benefit culinarily is its texture in soups and stir fries.

Sparassis

These, the Cauliflower Mushrooms are the largest of the corals, are easy to distinguish, are also blessed with a haunting and musky aroma which will begin to fade a day or two after they are harvested. They are not common in this area but appear occasionally. I have observed some confusion in some of the books over which names are attributed to which mushroom, but they are all choice and evidently there are no toxic look-alikes to any of them.

crispa

radicata

herbstii

Picking, Cooking and Storing: These sometimes giant fungi are delicate and brittle to the touch. Harvest only those that are creamy white to beige in color. Those that are darker in color may prove tough and difficult to digest. When cutting from its base, make sure not to damage or dislodge its central “root” as this may have an effect upon future fruitings. This one freezes and dries well, reconstituting with nearly no difference in attributes. The crunchy nature of this fungus makes it a good candidate for soups, pickles and frying. Cook it soon after harvest to retain the blessing of its incredible aroma.

Puffballs

Lycoperdales

Puffballs are often some of the first edible mushrooms which beginners gather for the pot. Although the shapes of puffballs can vary considerably, there is really only one seriously poisonous species, Scleroderma citrinum, not a true puffball, which thrives in our area and it is easily recognized. Most true puffballs are edible when young and pure solid white inside, but care must be taken not to mistake a puffball with the undeveloped egg form of an Amanita species. The Amanita egg, when sliced longitudinally (top to bottom as it grows from the ground) will show the faint outline of the button mushroom with cap, gills stem and universal veil apparent. The puffball should be a pure solid white when sliced from any direction. Spiny Puffball

Calvatia

gigantea (Giant Puffball)

There is no doubt of the identity of these when found unless they are mistaken at a distance for volleyballs, bags of kitchen garbage or even for grazing sheep! Sometimes maligned for being plain-tasting, this monster of a mushroom also has its enthusiastic followers. My main complaint with this fungus is that often there are not enough people around to consume it!

craniformis (Skull Shaped Puffball)

Not pretty, per se, but delicious just the same, this puffball is very common both to our woods and fields.

Lycoperdon

These smaller puffballs would seem too much work for the effort if it weren’t for the fact that they often grow in great numbers together.

pyriforme (Pear Shaped Puffball)

perlatum (Gem-Studded Puffball)

echinatum, curtisii (Spiny Puffball)

Picking, Cooking and Storing: When collecting puffballs, I try to keep the skin unbroken until I am ready to prepare it. I prefer to remove the skin or sclera before cooking. Often times centipedes will burrow into the bottom of the Giant Puffball, so you may need to coax these out gently before you put them in the car or fridge. The Giant Puffball can be sliced very nicely into sheets which can be breaded and fried and frozen in this manner so that they are ready to be served in the style of eggplant parmesan or lasagna whenever needed. Upon drying, puffballs change into a non-food item, more akin to a woody sponge than a tasty treat. The Native Americans used dried pieces of puffballs to staunch wounds.

Although they do have some unique attributes, much like tofu, puffballs take on the characteristics of what they are cooked with. They are very nice sautéed in butter and do pretty well on the grill, as well, brushed with oil and herbs.

Some Notable Individuals

Armillaria mellea Group (Honey Mushroom)

This delicious and often prolific mushroom comes in several forms ranging from almost smooth and yellow to an almost spiky dusky brown, ring present or absent. It can be difficult for beginners to pin this one down. Take care not to confuse it with the poisonous Sulfur Tuft (Naematoloma fasciculare). To arborists and gardeners, this mushroom can be public enemy #1, as it can lead to the rapid death of many types of trees and is capable of sending out runners or rhizomorphs which can extend more than 100 yards from their source in search of suitable hosts. In the kitchen, however, it has a milder reputation and is considered a favorite by many.

Picking, Cooking and Storing: Growing often in sizeable clusters, and sometimes quite large, the Honey Mushroom can be gathered in great quantity. When mature, only the caps are edible. Some people Aborted Entoloma and Honey Mushrooms prefer only the young closed caps. This is a mushroom which requires lengthy and thorough cooking; no quick sautés here. The safest route is to blanch them in boiling water for 5 minutes and discard the blanching water before proceeding. A number of people have a sensitivity to this mushroom even after very thorough cooking. The Honey Mushroom is wonderful cooked with garlic and butter and served in pasta dishes. It also makes excellent pickles.

Entoloma abortivum (Aborted Entoloma)

Far from pretty, it takes many folk a lot of time and courage to jump into eating this amorphous marshmallow of a fungus. Despite the controversy over whether to call this an Aborted Entoloma or an Aborted Honey mushroom, the fact is that this form arises from an interaction of Entoloma abortivum and Armillaria melea. Both delicious and worthwhile, Aborted Entoloma appears often in great numbers on the forest floor, usually following the radial roots of hardwoods clost to the surface.

Flammulina velutipes (Velvet Foot, Winter Mushroom)

The Winter Mushroom was one of the first fungi to be cultivated more than a thousand years ago, it is one of the only wild mushrooms of our region which fruits in the winter. It can be a welcome sight to sore eyes during those teasing thaws in the snowy months. This is the same species that is used for the cultivated Enoki mushroom, beloved to the Japanese and named for the location of its growth, which in Japan is on the Japanese Hackberry tree, or Enoki tree. The culinary qualities and appearance of the wild form of F. velutipes are very different from those of the cultivated form. Some people prefer to remove its slimy cuticle before cooking.

Hypholoma sublateritium, Naematoloma sublateritium (Brick Tops)

Really only tasty when very young, these are quite plentiful in late Fall.

Take care not to confuse it with the poisonous Sulfur Tuft (Naematoloma fasciculare).

Lepista nuda, Clitocybe nuda (Blewit)

Popular both in its wild (Blewit) and cultivated form (Blue Foot), this mushroom is everything a mushroom should be: meaty, tasty, colorful and multitalented. Suited for every style of cooking and storing, the only limitation for L. nuda is that it absolutely must be cooked before consumption, as it is mildly toxic in its raw state. Very nice in cream soups and sauces or can be substituted for a stronger flavor in recipes for Agaricus mushrooms. Special care must be taken not to confuse this mushroom in the wild with similarly colored poisonous species of Cortinarius. Make sure that the spore-print is pinkish buff and not rust colored.

Pleurotus ostreatus group (Oyster Mushrooms)

There are many forms of the Oyster Mushroom which grow wild in our area, and even more related species which are cultivated worldwide. Maple and Poplar are among its favorite hosts around here. Delicious and aromatic, our wild oysters can make short order of filling a grocery bags with their often prolific fruitings. Be sure to tap the black beetles which live on this mushroom from the gills before placing it in your bag or basket or you will, in 2 days time, return to a nice pile of mealy mushroom scented crud. An excellent choice for stir-fries, soups, stews, ravioli, grilling or as a cooked cold salad, this mushroom will hold well in the refrigerator for several days. An excellent mushroom for pickles, the Oyster does not dry or freeze well, becoming tough and mealy and losing some of its aroma and flavor. Due to recent reports of a number of deaths in Japan attributed to ingestion the smaller, thin-fleshed Pleurocybella porrigens (Angel’s Wings), I would recommend not eating this smaller conifer-loving Oyster Mushroom, even though it has been enjoyed as a good edible for many years and is listed as an edible in field guides in the US.

Ustilago maydis (Huitlacoche, Cuitlacoche, Corn Smut)

This is one of those instances where you can really see how the definition of food varies between cultures. In our area, the farmers of sweet corn spend a great deal of energy eradicating this fungus from their fields, treating it as a blight of the worst kind. In Mexico, the appearance of U. Maydis is cause for celebration, where it is fried, used in soups, quesadillas and tamales. It is available canned in Mexico and is referred to as the Mexican Corn Truffle. On smut-infected corn, individual kernels will darken and swell to a very large size. In the proper weather, it is not difficult to fill a basket in a short time. This is not necessarily a mushroom recommended for a meal designed to impress people who are unaccustomed to wild mushrooms or a prospective spouse as some people find it really repulsive and/or disgusting. It does, however retain its champions who sing its praises loudly.

Stropharia rugosoannulata (Wine Cap)

Delicious and often enormous, the Wine Cap pops up commonly in the hardwood woodchips used in landscaping mulch around trees and along tended pathways. This mushroom can be identified positively only in the presence of both the young and mature specimens. The buttons are sometimes but not always a Burgundian red wine color on top. When the veil is still closed over the immature gills, there is a coglike star pattern around the stem. In the mature fruiting bodies, the gills change from pink to a dark pinkish grey to grey brown color while the color of the cap lightens to a light brown to beige color. The spore print is purplish black in color.

I recommend eating only the young mushrooms of this species which are firm and bug free. The buttons of this species can reach 5-6” in diameter while still immature. They are meaty and rich and are well paired in meat sauces and sautés. When large, it can be cut into strips, brushed with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, sprinkled with herbs, salt and pepper and grilled to perfection.

Hypomyces lactiflorum –parasitic mold (Lobster Mushroom)

Not a mushroom on its own, H. lactiflorum is a parasitic mold which transforms certain Russula and Lactarius species into a different form, rendering them both edible and tasty. Extroverted in its coloring and introverted in its habit of hiding under the duff, the theory in the past has been that the Lobster Mushroom has been considered edible only when its host mushroom is positively identified due to the perceived possibility of its parasitization of a toxic species such as an Amanita. This theory was evidently unfounded, according to recent study, which is further supported by the complete absence of its presence in the extensive archival histories of mushroom poisonings.

Crunchy and a little bit reminiscent of shellfish, this lobster-colored mushroom can add tremendous color and character to fish and pasta dishes. It is good in cream sauces, sauces for fish and in whole grain pilafs. They require extensive cleaning, due to their habit of forming mostly under the duff of the forest floor. Drying Lobster mushrooms turns them leathery but they do freeze well after cooking.